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 Accidental Cruiser in the West Indies

 

Vini, Vidi, Vici

This journal is a log of all the messages from Susie & Lance. For pictures, please see the Gallery.

Queen Emma at the Oyster Regatta

Grenada Port Louis, St. Georges, Grenada 16.04.2011

The Regatta campaign plan:

  1. Don't hit anything
  2. Don't fall off the boat
  3. Don't break anything
  4. Have fun
  5. Beat DNF (Did Not Finish)

By our own lights - we came in first. Under the more traditional rules of British Racing - we came in 11th in a field of 15. That's the short of it. Those wishing to hear the bloody details should read on.

Flags on the dock

Flags on the Port Louis dock

We entered the field of battle in Port Louis Marina in the capital city of St. George's. We skillfully docked alongside the walkway leading to the imposing lineup of beautiful yachts moored stern to the docks. All the lovely ensigns facing the walkway are British. Some from colonies, some blue (signifying membership in a Royally chartered Yacht Club, the rest red, signifying British registration. Many flew flags of the various regattas they had been in; often filling the entire flag halyard from deck to the top of very tall masts. I began to get nervous. Queen Emma proudly flies the stars and stripes and, when showing off, - the Bear Flag. We are not the smallest in the fleet. We are the second smallest. The bulk of the 15 boats in our class were 56 feet long which is the most popular size in the Oyster line. The other class had two boats of 82 feet in its field of 9. Hitting (or even getting in the way of) one of these behemoths would not be pleasant.

Sotto Vento blowing past

Sotto Vento blowing past

We checked in at the race office and collected our bag of swag. Caps, flags, bags and other boat toys were included along with an impressive "Sailing Instructions" and other glossy magazines. Some magazines featured the very yachts we were to be racing against. The first order of business was the Concourse d'Elegance. Probably over half the boats have professional captains and crew and they all gleam with the sparkle of boats fresh from the factory supplied with ample fresh water and elbow grease. The judge did not even board Queen Emma.

Race Committee

Race Committee

We attended a "Skipper's briefing" where the assembled race committee tried its best to convince the sailors that this was a fun event in which the primary goal was to avoid damage and injury. The head of the coast guard gave a speech and outlined plans for the "parade of sails" which he would lead out past the Carenage towards the start line. Racing rules require at least 3 crew (most had many, many more) and we were fortunate to recruit Shaun, a south African sailor and Robin, the sales director from Oyster. Both were modest about their skills but quickly disproved their self deprecating statements. Since we had mostly joined to learn how to sail the boat it was wonderful to have along someone knowledgable. We were also able to button hole Eddie and Will (Oyster customer service) at various points to ask how to use/repair/service various items aboard. So we felt confident we'd "got value for money" before the race even started. The rest is gravy.

Robin Campbell

Robin Campbell

Shaun Tarr

Shaun Tarr

The first race started in a pouring rain. It looked likely to go down as an all time disaster for Oyster as the rain stole all the wind. After the usual wind up: time checks, announcement of the course & etc. came the declaration of sails. We declared "white sails only" meaning that we would not be using a spinnaker. This affects the handicapping of the boats. By adjusting your time by a factor dependant on the boat size and sails used, different boats could actually be competitive. Needless to say, we could still do well even if we came in last over the finish line. We all jockeyed for the position on the starting line. Said jockeying must take place without engine and in such light airs, I mostly just tried to stay out of everyone's way. By the official start, we were drifting slowly backwards. When the second group started, they flew big spinnakers and managed to get steerage way. I was still cowering in the corner hoping to actually get across the start line and began to lose hope for goal number 5 above. We did eventually drift across the line and with the help of a little breeze managed to get going while everyone else was still in sight. We were sailing "course C" (as outlined in the full color charts supplied along with written descriptions in the "Sailing Instructions"). 20 nautical miles long, course C runs straight downwind to a laid mark where we turn left, tacking up wind to a mark near a small island. Rounding that mark, back around Point Saline and up wind to the finish line near the harbor at St. George's. As we headed downwind, the wind filled in places, best near shore but adequate out where we were. It takes 4 hours for us to complete the race and we were pleasantly surprised to see that we were not the last ones crossing the line!

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Sails

Light winds and rain

Interspersed with racing comes the most important part of a Regatta: partying. The first night had us out to a beautiful beach where we were catered to by attentive hosts at Cinnamon Bay. Bonfires on the beach, tropical breezes, a fine fat moon, a fabulous West African style drumming band, drinks, hors d'oeuvres and a full sit down dinner for the assembled company. We came back stuffed, tipsy and tired; well past our usual 8:30 bed time.

Setting the spinnaker
Setting the spinnaker
"Starry Night" shows how it should be done
"Starry Night" shows how it should be done

The second race started on an upwind leg to the north. A bad start and a big wind hole left us wallowing as everyone took off. The rest was off the wind around Saline point followed by a beat up wind and up current across the southern part of Grenada to "Le Phare Bleu". We had lost 1/4 of the crew when Robin jumped to another boat. In addition, we were carrying our dinghy as we were too cheap to use the marina at Le Phare Bleu. Our secret weapon was Shaun who was not only brilliant at grinding but knew to send us well inshore for the beat up the south coast. There the winds were better, the seas calmer and the current less inshore than out where most of the fleet went. Humblingly, we only beat one boat to the finish and we were exhausted. Fortunately, another boat in our class did not finish. We were still on track for goal 5 and had not disgraced the Stars and Stripes. Actually, the racing rules specify that a vessel will be deemed to have withdrawn should "she wear her ensign" during the race. Good thing our clever admiral had actually read the rules. We came in 13 in a field of 15.

We anchored out behind Calvigny Island up at Le Phare Bleu. This is a charming little marina at the east most harbor on the southern coast. Run by a Swiss couple, it has lovely flowers, charming grounds, the best bread on the island and a really vicious swell which set all the big boats to rocking. The dock lines and rattling halyards set up quite a racket and we felt very clever in our snug little anchorage just around the corner. We dinghied in for the night's party where we dined, danced and relived our glories until the wee hours of the night (11:00pm).

Local boats do a "le Mans" start off the beach
Local boats do a "le Mans" start off the beach

The next day, a lay day brought a demonstration race of the local boats and an "oil down" on the beach. The oil down is the national dish of Grenada and is a kind of slow cooked curried stew full of dumplings, plantains, breadfruit, chicken and pork cooked in a big iron pot over a fire on the beach. We had to taste test three different versions in a competition between the ground staff, the kitchen staff and the maintenance staff. Big fun. Susie called it in the winning order.

Kevin Banfield
Kevin Banfield

On the third day of racing we lost Shaun who had pressing business. We recruited a local fellow, Kevin, who had left his phone number with Oyster and he showed up in plenty of time to get "shown the ropes". We dinghied out to the boat, made introductions and got out in enough time to get a couple of practice tacks in. Promising. Plenty of wind, calm seas and mostly downwind and down current back towards point Saline. To add spice, the course then calls for rounding a mark near Point Saline and beating all way back up wind and up current to the start line and then heading dead down wind again. Cruisers don't usually do this kind of thing. We were much amused by the various ways spinnakers can get into mischief and had a glorious run back to Port Louis. Lots of time for talking, not a lot of frantic activity and a lovely day.

The forth day dawned hot and still. We were dreading sitting out bobbing in the waters for four hours without wind. Gamely our intrepid crew soldiered on. We picked up a fourth crew, a veterinary student from St. George's (the medical school not the capital. After much discussion, the race committee moved the marks to be a reach across the harbor, back to the start and then repeat. We got a great start, rounding the pin end and unfurling sails smartly. Unfortunately, the jib furling line was jammed tightly in the fair lead and we had to luff up and release the working sheet to free the line before going on. That's sailor talk for "we screwed the pooch". We arrived at the first turn just as the big boats were passing. Many of these yachtsman had either not heard the committee instructions or had lost the plot in the general rush of adrenaline. Monster, multimillion dollar yachts were charging and jockeying all around us. We blew the tack at the turn and found ourselves on a port tack rushing straight towards Astahaya, the very boat we raced on in Antigua two years ago. He was on starboard tack and thus had the right of way. Your terrified captain backed the jib and took a slow turn to let everyone pass, tucked tail and sailed back and forth well clear of all the others. Blessedly, this race only lasted an hour so we had no time to rescue the situation with a further dazzling display of sailing skills. We are sure we came in DFL which beats DNF any day.

Queen Emma wins!
Queen Emma wins!

The prize giving ceremony was suitably elaborate and fulsome. Stylish people, shiny trophies, fireworks and a band. Susie did not wear her high heels or cocktail dress. She did manage a kindness for a crew who was feuding with their owner by getting them in to the dinner. We also won a prize of winch handle, handle holder and block from Lewmar, sponsor of the first race. This was for coming in fourth. We got our pictures taken and ate, danced and finally slept the sleep of the fully tired and satiated. A grand time was had by all.

for official photos, click here

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